I get so worked up about this argument. The whole identity thing is just a waste of time. The new American brands do in fact have amazing stories behind all of them. I mean think of this 1 simple fact..They are all mostly regular people who schooled themselves on denim. They are people who go to coffee shops that cut hair. Its pretty amazing that some of these brands are made by the guy u have come across in a forum . These are people (AMERICANS) who actually got up off their asses and did something about the garment industry leaving the U.S. These are people who want of course to make a buck but more importantly to make a pair of jeans eventually without having to BOLD FACE MADE IN THE USA because the only reason companies have to say that now is because all who sent the work elsewhere . I believe most Japanese brands niche/stories are in fact craftsmanship and thats it. There is no story or history or anything to them other than craftsmanship. Yea well made means a lot but please don't say they have a better story because that's just not true. We all remember how most of these GOD like Japanese brands started out?? They all had Levis red tabs and back pocket stitching. Before Levi's forced them to change it they would have never developed their own identities...They would have all remained copy cat repro brands. People complained and poked fun at LEvi's for causing such a stir over that. The Japanese brands should thank them because they all moved on towards becoming their own brands and of course their own identities.

That said I wear most of my jeans simply based on fit 1st quality 2nd . Bad fitting great quality jeans mean jack ish to me

Most people don't give two shits about fabric, philosophy, etc. If an average person buys made in America, its because they want a quality product that looks good and that was produced responsibly and ethically, and perhaps also for providing jobs here in the USA. I don't blame a single person for thinking denim heads can geek out too much on this shit.

Cone is not the only weaving mill that is makeing denim fabric. Here are some.
Burlington
DNA
Cone
Columbus liberty
Swift
UCO
Galey & lord
ACG
Mt vernon

There are few domestic producers: ITG, ACG, Mount Vernon, Galey/Swift/Lord, and DNA.

Cone is the only domestic producer creating self-edged fabrics, as none of the others own the working capital to possess the ability to produce non frayed-edge.

This article is interesting, but only to the point that it is inaccurate. If a company wants to be Made in America, it should make using Made in America, and therefore live up to the coined term.

A major issue is that a lot of companies are using the same manufacturing facility (Pacific Blue) in California, labeling it 'their own factory' and taking pictures 'of us at our manufacturing facility', when in fact there is no ownership other than a contract. Buying a slated production from a facility that produces for others will only yield similar cuts and pockets and styles.

Also-- is it truly made in the USA when all of the labor is obtained by trucking over the border and finishing with labels in the states?

If you are going to go out of your way to buy Made in USA garments, actually attempt to buy just that, none of this other ill-attempted branding.

You do realize you listed Cone among the others, right? And Burlington owns Cone, so...

blah bllah blah... Japanese denim is still better

wait, are we talking about the same company ? levis mass produce their products in China, Mexico ,Poland and many places, they claim they can bring better prices to the customers. Now, are you blame these countries ? just because now there is trend called " American Vintage" ? that's the SAME company and it is just about pursuing profits. don't justify the reason and find scapegoat.

Also, it is ridiculous to generalize every product made in outside of JP & USA is shit.
we can find many interesting and detailed AND high quality products in England, Indonesia, Thailand and China.

and near every American brand get their fabric from Cone Mills or from Japan, so what is the difference there?

the same price, i would choose Japanese products.

Dude, did you even read the article? He never once BLAMES these countries; he never once claims that products made outside the US and Japan are, as you say, "shit." And I am so sick and tired of the absolutely inane argument that because denim comes from Cone Mills, it all must be the same. First, Cone makes exclusive denim for certain companies. Second, the companies must stitch together the raw denim. Now, if we all wore raw denim around in a shapeless cape, it may be close to the same. But I do believe there's just a bit that goes into putting the jean together: design and stuff.
I know your English isn't that great, but do try to focus on the details of an article.

"...the same price, i would choose Japanese products."

+1 on that.

3Sixteen's denim is from Kuroki, not Kaihara.

The American brands have everything in place for success - materials, craftsmanship, and so on - except for an identity. They all have virtually the same story (Made In America, Durable Workwear, etc.) with the exception of 3Sixteen and Roy. Each of these companies makes nice jeans, but Baldwin, Tellason, and the others all just blend together to me. Companies like Flat Head, Samurai, Pure Blue Japan, and Sugar Cane don't just make high-quality products, each company has a different philosophy and story in addition to varying style and details that clearly distinguish them from each other. When American brands develop individual identities, then they'll be truly ready to compete with the big companies - and since they can offer a less expensive product than Japan, that would give them a serious advantage.

What a ridiculous generalization of American brands: to say that they lack identity because they lack a philosophy and story seems like an uninformed and uniform dismissal of a group of people who each brings a history to his or her products. And to say they lack details? You cite Tellason as an example of a brand who is grouped in your mind with the others, so I'll use them as well: the signature t-stitch on the back pockets done in contrast colors, the red legal tab in the right back pocket, the deep blue of the denim thanks to the 40% indigo: these sound like worthy and distinctive details to me. And just ask Patella and company about their philosophy--or, hell, read it on this sight.
And don't you think made-in-America brands will probably have that as part of their story? That's like saying at Japanese companies all have made-in-Japan as part of their story. A reflexive argument when pointing out a lack of identity.
Many of the Japanese brands make it no secret that their foundation is in a reverence for Americana and vintage American style. Does this mean that they lack an identity or are biting it off predecessors? I don't think so.
I know you have a stake in supporting Japanese denim, as the industry employs you, but perhaps you should pay more attention to what's happening here at home.

Er, Kyle, the "blue collar, dirt under finger nails," IS the identity to some American made jeans. I do agree that certain brands can blend in, and I think that shows a lack of creativity and honesty, but c'mon. To say American brands don't really have an identity is missing the identity that's already in place.

"When American brands develop individual identities, then they'll be
truly ready to compete with the big companies - and since they can offer
a less expensive product than Japan, that would give them a serious
advantage."

Agreed. However, they market at the same price point as the jap brands even though there's no import...so its straight mark-up. I'd rather throw the same amount of money in a japanese brand thats less generic.

Thanks Kyle, the Kaihara reference should have been Kuroki. Article revised.

Word. And good job pointing it out for the world to see how right you are, Kyle. It's not like you could have contacted the author or editor to correct the mistake. Oh, wait, you're a contributor... Nice oneupsmanship.

This incessant need for some "narrative" behind denim brands would be comical if it wasn't so pathetic. It's denim. Nothing more, nothing less. Why the constant attempt to make it something more than it is? It almost seems as if some people's identity is wrapped up not only in the jean itself, but in the story behind it. Jesus, get a life. Jeans are a utilitarian garment and no narrative (fictional or otherwise) is needed. Let them make a quality product and sell it at a fair price. I'll buy it and wear the shit out of it. End of story.

I can't stand these "lifestyle brands"

i agree. "our company is named after our grandfather, who was a miner by day and lumberjack by night. he also served in the us navy. he was a family man and that's what our company represents; family. we named our jeans after him because theyre tough like he was"...

I second what Kyle says, to me, all the japanese denim companies all have different stories and different niches that they try and fill, whether it be Americana, or high quality, or kind of gimmicky, or super limited edition, they all have a different purpose. Seems like all the new U.S denim brands that seem to be popping up all have the same, vintage, high quality, workwear type niche.