Fashion should represent our diverse world.

Can'r agree more. Fashion industry is going into a very niche corner, where all designers go for one cliche style of models, leaving diversity (skin colour as well as body type) out of scope. Eventually the buyers are very diverse from all different origins. Fashion should represent majority, not only to the thought, desire, and perception of elites of the fashion industry. More voice , more colour, more size, that will make the fashion leap even further.

A very interesting point and one that I think is slowly being recognised by some, though not necessarily enough to make a difference. There was discussion of Victorias Secret in this with Jordan Dunn criticising them for their lack of diversity, but I feel that not much was made of this?

It is the same with plus size discrimination too; 'luxury' or even stylish clothing is not deemed fit for anyone above a size 12 it would seem. Designer plus size clothing itself is limited to its own fashion week, plus size awards shows are entirely separated too so that even its most popular designers such as Anna Scholz (who won Best Designer this year) aren't even heard of outside of plus size circles.

This being said I think just the fact that articles like this are being published and garnering attention shows that there is a push for change, whether it is heard and adhered to is a different matter though!

Nat

At first It may come off as a bit of an outrage to some but depending on how you look at it, it could be a good thing. while hidden in a sea of white models who look almost identical, the black model emerges from the crowd. skin complimenting the designers pieces flawlessly making bright colors appear more vibrant and giving neutrals a bolder presence. When that single black model hits the runway no one dare makes a move. they all just allow her to move freely down the runway because they know this outcast is the precious diamond of the show.... what if the limited use of black models is to not downgrade them but just simply an act of ''saving the best for last'' or preserving their exquisiteness without threat of overuse

I'm working on a blog piece about getting beyond the models and designers for diversity, and actually start looking at those working behind the scenes; those who graduate from fashion design schools and journalism schools. If we include stylists, PR, marketing, graphics, packaging, vendors, retail, buyers, makeup artists, tailors, photographers, and editors, then, I think, we'll be really surprised at range of diversity in the industry. Not to suggest that all is well, but I think when this question comes up, we focus too narrowly on the most visible people -- the models and the designers. But in order to move the conversation forward, we have to be more inclusive about who counts in the industry.

I agree. I think we'll have a true understanding of how diverse the industry actually is if we include people with different roles in the industry. I'd love to read your blog post.

Love seeing Ryerson Fashion mentioned in B of F! Was such a great place to go to school :)

Thanks BOF for another interesting article.

I wonder how accepted or successful a label could be that used only people of color in advertising and presentation.
Surely it would be boxed into an "ethnic" or "exotic" category by today's standards. Would it be more or less desirable to white consumers? Would minority consumers be more or less interested?

Archaic ideas of ethnicity will give way to a more humanist global population in the future. That may be a distant future, but fashion has a unique forum to address this in that it fits the human form, not any skin tone in particular.

I think the more exotic or exclusive; the more desirable it becomes; consider HSlimane who's consistently ripped to shreds by the critics for his take on SaintLaurent while his plans for the couture line have raised even more over-arched eyebrows [if that's logistically possible]. B-sides AR, look at how white bread teenagers navigate towards hip-hop to showcase their own level of cool being mindful not to stain the jeans their Mom washed for them that morning.

To be grateful, is nothing more than to be full of what is great. What are you full of - Frank Wilder

I'll let posterity decide this one Frank.

I have read several times that it's because the designers are mostly white, their muses tend to be white, they think anything other than a white model will 'distract' from the clothes.

I completely agree with this. I've been working in the NYC fashion industry for years and have yet to work with black designers on any level. In fact, I'm usually the only one present. I've faced racism head on in these environments and now have a clear understanding of why people of color have it rough in the industry at large. It's not just the models.

Yes it is true for the UK too! I totally get why there are so few black high profile designers- well none, unless you really dig deep you will see there are a tiny handful that don't really make it mainstream. It's such a complex issue to dissect in order to provide a solution. Of course rooted in racism. I've been called lazy by my white counterparts even though I've won more awards than them. Where's the respect? Not to mention the unconscious biases that emerge when I'm presenting at tradeshows.

That's an interesting point. I studied fashion design and I must admit that when considering my potential customer, all I envisioned was white women. I am white, and I design for myself, so you are probably right. It probably has to be a conscious decision to consider how clothes would even look on other skintones - the recent "innovations" (for want of a better word) in "nude" coloured products springs to mind.

I wonder if anyone in their inner circle suggests taking the blinkers off to broaden their horizons.

Focusing on Paris alone, rather than ask the question in general terms to the private individual, ask the question in specific terms to the public enterprise: designers ChitoseAbe [Sacai], ReiKawakubo [CommedesGarçons], AlexanderWang [Balenciaga], JunyaWatanabe & YohjiYamamoto may as well have been staging their shows in St.Petersburg rather than Paris when it comes to representing diversity. The specter of Hitlers' Aryan supremacy apparently wasn't buried with his satanic spirit; old ghosts die hard. Is Caucasian the paragon of beauty or are the rosters of agencies filled with more European descendants than African or Asian archetypes. Ask the casting directors why they perpetuate the racial divide between the material world & the modeling world; it's time to pull the plug, scope the clog & flush out the serialized segregation.

Each of the contributors did a wonderful job discussing this taboo topic. Thank you, BOF, for making this a topic of discussion, and the timing is perfect. This season I am happy to see more luxury brands featuring diversity, including Celine, Lanvin, Cavalli, La Perla, Vera Wang, and others following the lead of Burberry and Louis Vuitton. Still, the current DNA of so many brands lacks diversity and it does start at the top in the boardroom, the C-suite, even middle management. I am surprised that with the rise and dominance of Millennials in our society, we are still not seeing the changes that need to take place more prominently. It transcends generations, and hopefully by continuing this conversation and making sure that we monitor and applaud the positive changes, we will see more consistent change and evolution. The advertisers, leadership of these companies, and fashion industry overall will need to respect and reflect upon the global consumer base, and stop avoiding them.

GenX are calling the shots M, in another 20, diversity will be more prevalent, less peculiar in subject matter.

Agreed! The decision makers aren't diverse enough. I don't expect Becky to see the importance of diversity if it's not reflected in her life neither personally nor professionally. Yet I would expect Ming, Maria, Kasim and Sharonda to express a diverse idea of beauty and opulence. Diversity is the new social responsibility in my eyes!

The reason for the fashion industry not being more diverse is due to the fact that diversity is not on the AGENDA.

Away from the catwalk and back at their offices and retail outlets most Luxury Brands behaviours mirrors that of the catwalk. Boardrooms are the reserve for whites only. Lower down the rung of management the story is the same, Whites with little or no relevant qualifications often surpass their non white colleagues with regards to promotion.
Often times the ones on the Fastrack will emanate from industries so far removed the industry that they are being progressed within, that the conclusions drawn are often that its ones hue which is the determining factor.
There often times a two-tiered approach to adherence of company rules and policies in fact very similar to arparthied in which cases are handled and non whites are treated.
Unfortunately legislation which were introduced to protect have now become a hindrance for non whites as companies simply will not employ ethnics or if they do its in tick the box manner.
If you have come to the conclusion that its utter nonesense what is being claimed then do a soft survey for yourself.

Mystery shop a dozen Luxury Brands.
How Many Non Whites make up the sales team? Security Guards & cleaning staff excluded.
Ask to speak to a Manager? How many are non white?

It may just be a small survey and its not to suggest that Whites are not proficient. Absolutely no. Its just that the playing field and opportunities need to be equal.
Do not be fooled by Brands who have Black or Non white ambassadors for advertising but at the same time would not dream of employing someone who looks similar to their ambassador and if they did his/her career prospects of progressing is virtually nil.
Yes the catwalk is one thing but we need to drill down back at base to address the real problem.

The narrow minded definition of beauty

Personally I think this trickles down from the top, let's not only focus on the modeling industry and talk about the fashion industry as a whole.
The fashion industry needs more diversity. More people of color need to be a core part of the entire fashion process, from concept to design, all the way to ,marketing & brand communication. If this can change, the industry will experience a "diverse growth"

The lack of diversity is also reflective of the
corporate structure at most Fashion Houses.
Lack of diversity is the unbelly of the fabric
of our larger society and its small mindiness.